The Nobbies Rock Phillip Island

Phillip Island was part of the homelands of the Yallok Bulluk people of the Bunurong/Boonwurrung clan for many thousands of years before white exploration of the area began. The Bunurong/Boonwurrung were members of the Kulin nation of Aboriginal people. The Bunurong/Boonwurrung people called the island "Millowl". The Yallok Bulluk came to Millowl in the summer months to feast on shellfish, fish, small marsupials and mutton birds (short tailed shearwaters). Ochre was available at several locations on Millowl and Churchill Island and would have been used as body decoration during ceremonies. Further information can be found here - Aboriginal Culture

This island paradise of abundant wildlife and picturesque bays attracted European settlement and a thriving fur seal trade in the early 1800s. George Bass was the first European to visit Western Port on the 5th January 1798 after a voyage down the coast from Port Jackson in a 28ft whaleboat. He named it Western Port because it was west of Port Jackson. Sealers soon followed, harvesting the seals on the Bass Strait islands and Seal Rocks near the Nobbies.

The McHaffie brothers took out a lease of the whole of Phillip Island in 1842 and grazed sheep here. They lost all bar 640 acres around the homestead when the Island was opened up for closer settlement during 1868-69. Conditions were very harsh for the settlers and many left because of drought, failed crops and lack of water.

Chicory was one of the first crops grown and proved suitable for the Island’s climate, a lack of frosts being the main requirement. It was grown here for over 100 years and the remaining chicory kilns with their pyramid-shaped roofs are a Phillip Island icon. All supplies and farm produce had to be transported by sea as the Koo Wee Rup swamp blocked access around the bay. Much of this cargo was carried by Captain John Lock who owned several trading ketches based at Rhyll.

The tourist industry started soon after subdivision, the first hotel the Isle of Wight opening in 1870 with the nearby Phillip Island Hotel soon after. The first regular ferry service began in 1878 making access much easier for visitors. The small paddle steamer Eclipse began running from Hastings to San Remo with stops at Cowes, Rhyll and Newhaven.

The guest house era began in the 1880’s with the main period during the 1920’s to the 1950’s. Visitors during this time could hire a horse-drawn vehicle and visit one of the many scenic ocean beaches or the small village of Rhyll and dine on strawberries at the Strawberry Farm.

Tourists went out to the southern side of the Island in the evenings, not to visit the penguins, but to watch the return of thousands of mutton birds to their burrows on the cliff tops. Visits to the nightly return of the penguins at Summerland Beach began in the 1920’s and soon overtook the mutton birds in popularity.

The first car ferry, the ex Sydney ferry Killara began running in1933 and the first bridge was opened in 1940, greatly increasing the number of tourists visiting here. Motor racing, both car and bike began in 1928 with the circuit around the Island’s dirt roads. The Australian Grand Prix for cars was held for a number of years but the dust from the unsealed roads was a great problem and the major races moved elsewhere after 1938. In 1952 the Phillip Island Auto Racing Club opened up a new circuit on private land adjacent to the south coast. It went into decline in the 60’s until bought by Len Lukey who resurrected the circuit. Major reconstruction work was done on the track and buildings to stage the 1989 motorbike GP and it has operated continuously since then.

The present bridge was opened in 1969. This allowed increased development as the old bridge was subject to strict load limits. Tourists on large buses had to walk across the bridge and trucks were limited to 6 tons maximum. Written by John Jansson.

Phillip Island & District Historical Society

Established in 1941, the Society holds a great deal of knowledge of the Island's history. Be sure to visit the new museum display at Berninneit (Cowes Cultural Centre), 91-97 Thompson Avenue to see the new museum display or see the Phillip Island & District Historical Society website to learn more.

Historical Walks

Discovering Phillip Island’s history can be as easy as enjoying one of these self-guided walks:

Cowes East Historical Walk - download map here

Cowes West Historical Walk - download map here

Rhyll Historical Walk - download map here